1951

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Historical Time Line

Stage 0 - Acquiring Project

Purchase Details

  • 08/07/2007 - I bought the truck after watching it on Craigslist for several months. The initial price was $8000 but after several months it dropped to $2800 and I couldn't pass it up. Initial purchase price was $2800. The hard part will be getting a new title as the owner lost the original.

Registration

  • 08/16/2007 - Since the truck has a lost title and is no longer on DMV record, I needed to jump through the usual DMV hoops. I went to DMV and got a moving permit as they wanted me to get the truck weighed. After acquiring the permit, I then took the truck to the public scales at Berry Seed & Feed, which is near Keyes. The truck 2880 lbs (1.44 short tons).
  • 09/01/2007 - As part of the hoops to get the truck registered and issued a new title, I had CHP in Modesto perform a vehicle inspection, which involves checking every # they can find on the truck. The 1951 Chevy trucks only had the VIN in one spot, which is on the driver side door post. Officer Arounsack was hesitant about not finding a frame number, but after figuring out that there wasn't one to be found he was happier. To my disappointment, he did tell me I couldn't use the engine as the VIN was damage and couldn't be completely read. I had to pull the engine and bring it back for the final inspection as Officer Arounsack couldn't sign off with the engine in the truck.
  • 09/28/2007 - Finally the truck is registered and I was issued a title.

Stage 1 - Roadworthy

Front Body Parts

  • 11/06/2007 - I bought another 1951 Chevy Truck as a donor for the front body parts (left and right fenders plus grill). It cost $800 for the truck, but it was registered and had a title.
  • 01/01/2008 - Dad removed and cleaned up the grill and fenders from the donor truck.
  • 02/01/2008 - We have the grill and fenders from the donor truck primed and on the new truck. They aren't aligned properly, but I'll come back to this later.
  • 03/15/2008 - I ordered a new radiator from Jim Carter Classic Truck Parts for $372.85.
  • 04/01/2008 - We got new radiator on the truck. I then bought a new battery from Napa in Keyes and we got the truck started up with the old 350 engine.
  • 04/01/2008 - We got new radiator on the truck. I then bought a new battery from Napa in Keyes and we got the truck started up with the old 350 engine.
  • 04/15/2008 - We're having trouble with the shaved doors. The solenoids the PO used are weak and need to be replace. I ordered new Autoloc solenoids with relays.

Engine

  • 05/01/2008 - The original was leaking water from the front driver side corner. Coupled with the fact that CHP didn't want me using the engine, I decided to cut my losses short and pull the engine to add my 350 that I recovered from my 68 Camaro.
  • 06/30/2008 - We needed to plug off the valve going to the heater hose as new truck doesn't have a heater box yet and as I was doing that I cracked the intake manifold around the heater valve area. Some days you wonder if anything can go right ;-). To make a positive spin on this dreadful situation, I decided to get both a new intake and carburetor. I ordered a brand new Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifold and Edelbrock Thunder Series AVS Carburetor from Kragens in Turlock.
  • 07/05/2008 - We put the new intake, carburetor, and valve covers on today.
  • 07/06/2008 - As we replaced the intake, we had to drop the distributor back in. To my surprise, the distributor went quite well. It took me a while but I custom built and fitted the spark plugs wires using MSD wires and wired the distributor all back up. At last, we finally fired the engine up for the first time! Obviously it's very loud without the pipes / mufflers. Next stop, brakes. <--Git'it "next stop" ;-).

Brakes I

  • 07/07/2008 - Took it to Paul Moore Brakes (aka Lawrence) to do the brakes.
  • 07/14/2008 - I ordered a power brake booster kit as I figured it would be better with the disc brakes.
  • 07/27/2008 - I sold the donor truck for $400 as I no longer need it.
  • 07/28/2008 - We had to change transmission cross member as the existing cross member interferes with the booster kit. It goes high on the frame, whereas the new one mount on the bottom of the frame. I also order a polyurethane transmission mount.
  • 08/01/2008 - I had to order a new front disc brake/wheel kit as it had two left REAR calipers for the FRONT brakes.
  • 08/04/2008 - Talked to Lawrence and Kevin today to let them know that the front disc kit is on the way and should be here by Wednesday.
  • 08/06/2008 - I checked my credit card statement online and it wasn't charged yet, so I knew more than likely they didn't ship the front disc kit. I called POL to see why they weren't shipped yet and apparently the ONE guy that does the drilling and slotting of the disc brakes is on vacation and won't be back until Monday. I was half tempted to have them ship them without the drilled and slotted option, but I really want to go the extra mile. I guess it's been a month, or close to it, so what's another week.
  • 08/12/2008 - Still haven't seen the brakes shipped, so I called to see what's going on and they assured me the brakes will be shipped today. After work, I went to the brake shop and talked to Kevin to let him know. Kevin was just finishing up with the rear brake cylinders. Later I checked my credit card online and sure enough it was charged, so the brakes should be on their way.
  • 08/14/2008 - The front disc brakes finally came in today, so I dropped them off with Lawrence and Kevin. Hopefully I'll get the truck tomorrow, but if not then I'll surely get it back early next week, that is, if nothing else needs to be ordered.
  • 08/15/2008 - Fourth and inches! Went to the shop and Kevin was doing a dry fit. We ran into a few issues, primarily we kept putting the racing/sleeve on the outer bearing on backwards. We were putting the sleeve, then the outer bearing when Lawrence suggested we try the outer bearing and then the sleeve. To our content, it worked as Lawrence suggested. The instructions that came with the kit are far from detailed. The last problem was that we didn't have enough room between the rotor and the caliper bracket to fit the brake shoe! Kevin pointed out that it looked as if we could remove the spacer between the spindle and caliper bracket which would then move back the caliper bracket just enough for the shoes to fit. The instructions clear say that the spacer should be used. After going home and calling Mike at POL, he needed pictures. I took some digital pictures for him to see what we were doing, Mike apologized and said that the spacers shouldn't have been in the kit. Mike was the one who did the fitting prior to shipping to us, but he said someone else packaged it up for us. I called Kevin to let him know that he was right and the spacers are not to be used. This was at close to 5:00, so I doubt much more will be done tonight. I'm hoping next week I can bring the project back home to work on the transmission and other tasks that have much fallen behind.
  • 08/18/2008 - Kevin was still having trouble fitting the brake shoes on and we were only missing a fraction of an inch. I called Mike and he wanted to see some more photos, so I took quite a few for him to see what we were talking about. Mike, at POL, said that everything we're doing was right and he confirmed that we're assembling everything in the proper order. Mike eventually suggested we shave the pads.
  • 08/22/2008 - Isabela Mae was born today.
  • 08/28/2008 - Went to check on the progress of my truck and Kevin had a big smile on his face. I looked at the front brakes and they looked perfect! To my surprise Lawrence figured it all out despite the set backs. Sure Lawrence could have taken the easy way out, but he didn't! This is why I'll always come back to Lawrence. He never gives up and won't be satisfied until it done right; he's a true one of the kind. In the ended, it turned out being the caliper brackets were labeled backwards and the spacers that Mike, from POL, told us not to use were indeed required. I'm flaming at all the trouble we had and all of it came from POL. Not only did they tell us not to use the spacers, but they also labeled the brackets completely wrong! I'm going to wait a few days before I call them, since I want to be coherent when I express my displeasure. I'm starting to doubt that they actually engineer these kits since they clearly don't know how to provide technical support for them.
  • 09/13/2008 - Send a long email to POL about complaints. <TODO:link to email??>
  • 09/17/2008 - Received response from CEO of POL. <TODO:link to email??>
  • Lost focus on truck with new baby et al.
  • 10/06/2008 - Lawrence called saying there was an issue with the master cylinder and he wanted me to come look at it tomorrow.
  • 10/06/2008 - Responded to POL CEO's email. <TODO:link to email??>
  • 10/07/2008 - I went to check out the master cylinder issue and to take photos for POL. Sure enough, there appears to be some over/rough casting on the inside of the chamber and also, more importantly, the piston doesn't return smoothly like it should. I took some pictures to show POL the new issue. I also took some pictures of how we mounted the front wheel kit to possibly help POL and any future purchasers of the kit. I called POL and got hold of Mike. Within a few minutes, he said a new one will be tested and shipped out today. I got to admit that I was surprised at how easy that was. I half expected them to be a bit upset with me as I wasn't very nice in my initial email. I'm glad to know they are professional with how they deal with customers and are quite abiding on returns.
  • 10/13/2008 - Received the new master cylinder today via UPS who thankfully doesn't observe Columbus Day. I took it down to Lawrence right after work. I still need to send the photos to POL to show them how we mounted the front wheel kit and how the old master cylinder looked.
  • 10/30/2008 - I've been checking on a weekly basis, but Lawrence is back logged and therefore my project sits... until today! Today, as I pulled up into the well acquainted parking lot I saw that my truck was on the ground with the wheels on, albeit with flat tires, but on the ground nonetheless. I talked with Lawrence and he said I can come by tomorrow to pick up the pickup ;-).
  • 10/31/2008 - There are possibly some minor leaks (can't tell since when filling the master cylinder it overflowed), but Lawrence said I can take the truck home. The master cylinder is hard to fill since with the new improved cylinder is shifted to the back. Eventually I figure I can cut the floor in the shape of the battery compartment and use another battery cover to hide it.

Attach Transmission Crossmember

  • 11/01/2008 - I adjusted the driver side door a bit. I may need new hinges for the driver side. I definitely need a new latch as the old one is frozen. I installed the new polyurethane transmission mount and measured / cut the transmission cross member to size. The cross member still wouldn't go in as I need another 1/4" on the driver side to adjust for the mount holes in the transmission mount. I'll try again tomorrow.
  • 11/02/2008 - I now have the transmission cross member up there and the transmission mount holes aligned perfectly, but the cross member doesn't seem to fit flat against the frame on the driver's side. I also need to get two of the tires fixed as they keep going flat.
  • 11/03/2008 - Dropped off the two tires at America's Tire during lunch and picked up after work. America's Tire are absolutely great! They didn't charge anything for fixing the leaks on my rollers and even replaced a tire for free. I'm going to certainly keep them in mind when I purchase the custom rims / tires for this project. After work, I played with the transmission cross member and figured out my issue. I needed to trim off another .75" on cross member from the driver side. Once I trimmed it a bit, it gave me enough play to get the cross member end caps flat against the frame rails. I measured the from old L-6 mounts (bolt closer to the radiator) and have the end of the end cap at 20.5" on both sides. It got too dark, thanks day light savings time change, and I had to stop.
  • 11/09/2008 - I mounted the cross member end caps after double checking all the measurements. We then loaded up the truck and went over my Dad's house to use the MIG. We set the transmission where we wanted it and I spot welded so it wouldn't move when I pulled it back out. After pulling it out, I put a nice heavy bead all the way around where the tube inserts into the end cap. We re-mounted the cross member and released the transmission to see how well everything fits. The transmission and cross member look great!

Transmission, Replace shifter, Drive Line, and Rear End

  • 11/10/2008 - I talked to Greg from Al's Transmissions during lunch and we agreed on brining the truck down at around 3:15 today. After work, I took the truck down and talked to Kay and Al. We basically agreed that Al would open up the transmission to look at it to see what needs to be done given that it was sitting 14 years. I also explained that I wanted his opinion on the drive shaft to know if it needs to be extended / lengthen. Al said they could also look at the leak coming from the rear yoke / pinion. For the shifter, it has a B&M floor shifter mounted on some custom box and it looks like crap. Besides the fact that the shifter is also getting reverse in two positions. I want to replace the shifter with a manual style looking. Al said it would be better if I bought the shifter I wanted and then he could mount it for me. He said I should talk with Pete from Bonander Parts department. Recap of things to be done: service transmission, check drive shaft, fix leak at rear yoke / pinion, and install shifter kit that I will purchase. I called Pete and he said he preferred Lokar over Gennie and I tend to agree as the Gennie doesn't appear to have the lock out feature. I explained to Pete that I would like the shifter at the same level as the under dash and he thought 12" would do it. He said he was going to call a few speed shop guys that he knows and give me a call back tomorrow.
  • 11/11/2008 - I called Lokar myself and figured out that I need to add 4 inches to the total length of the shifter to get the total length. With that, I determined I needed a 16" shifter. Pete from Bonander called back and he suggested a 16" as well, but he said to go with a tail mount. This seems wrong to me as the tail mount would place the shifter further back. I think I'll do some more research.
  • 11/12/2008 - After a ton of research last night, I decided to get the shifter myself and to go with a standard tranny mount shifter. I ordered it from Summit Racing during lunch and it was part #: LOK-ATS6350BM, which appears to match with Lokar's part # ATS6350B. I also ordered a standard rectangle boot, part # LOK-70-BFMB. Summit called me back to confirm my web order and said I would get the order tomorrow.
  • 11/13/2008 - Sure enough I received the package from Summit today, so I took it to Al. Al had my transmission out of the truck and said the previous owner had used the wrong torque converter. The PO used a turbo 400, when it should have been a 350, so Al said he'll swap it out.
  • 11/16/2008 - I ordered the American Autowire, part # 500467, wiring harness today from eBay as PayPal sent a 10% off coupon.
  • 11/20/2008 - Kay from Al's Transmissions called and left a couple of voice mails. I was crashed out on the couch, but woke up for the spin class and found the two voice mails. I called her back and she said the truck is ready to go. It was 4:40, so there was no way I could go get it today. We made arrangements for me to come by during my lunch hour tomorrow, 11:00ish, to pick up the truck. Al got on the phone and explained all that he had done and he said he'll leave it on the lift as he wants to show me everything. My jaw dropped when I heard the total price of $2,148.07 though.
  • 11/21/2008 - During lunch I went to pick up the truck. The new shifter looks great! Al walked through everything they did. They completely rebuilt the tranny, installed a mild shift kit, installed the new Lokar shifter, replaced the read pinion seal, checked the rear end, replace the fluids in both the tranny and rear end, undercoated the truck, mounted my brake booster bracket, painted my tranny mount, painted the tranny, and checked the drive line. Al said the drive line was about 1/2 an inch to short, but it's border line on whether I need to lengthen it or not. He said to just try it out and if the seals don't leak, then not to worry about it. I still think I will length it sooner than later though. Al said that I have a two year warranty on the work. He also said that we may need to adjust things and if so to simply bring the truck back when I'm ready. We also talked about the bench seat and Al showed me what he did on his 40's era Chevy truck. He said he put a 89-99 Chevy Silverado bench seat as it fits quite nicely. He said he did chop off about 3" though. It looks really nice and has a flip down back. I'm definitely going to consider his idea as an option.
  • 11/22/2008 - Play with the truck today and I removed some excess wires that where coming from the old shifter box. I also got the emergency brake working slightly better with a bit of oiling. I went and did the run around for the vacuum hose and elbow I needed. Kragens had the elbow that goes on the intake manifold, but they didn't have a vacuum hose that would withhold the pressure needed for the brake booster. Kragens told me to try Bonander, so I went there. As soon as I mentioned "for the brake booster", they said nope and they suggested Parts Unlimited on 1142 South 1st street. They had exactly what I needed and I tell you, that is some thick hose.
  • 11/23/2008 - I installed the vacuum hose for the brake booster before going to Sunday dinner at the Mom and Dads. While over there, my Dad was working on his 36 Chevy pickup. He was blowing out the floor to get it ready for a replacement. Later that night I got on the lappie and ordered a bunch of various parts from Jim Carter (oldchevytrucks.com). I basically got everything I needed for the headlights bezel, H-4 headlights, taillights, door latches/striker plates, and a bunch of wiring harness clips for a grand total of $356.39. This stuff adds up ;-).

Mufflers

  • 11/24/2008 - I called Bob from Bob's Mufflers and we made arrangements to drop off the truck on next Monday (December 1st). I also went by Lawrence's, Paul Moore Brakes, and mentioned that I have a leak with the brakes, which we need was a possibility. The receptionist said Wednesday would work for them.
  • 12/01/2008 - Dropped off the truck during lunch at Bob's Mufflers. He put it up on the rack and we did a walk through of how he will mount the new mufflers and pipes. He'll be going under the transmission mount due to the master cylinder on the driver's side. There's still plenty of room and he said there wouldn't be any problem with it at all. He said he'll be done with it tomorrow. At around 5:45, that night, UPS dropped off my American Autowire wiring harness and also the stuff I order from Jim Carter's. I tell you, that's a lot of wire!
  • 12/02/2008 - I stopped by Bob's on the way home during my lunch hour and he was almost done! The pipes look great and very symmetrical. Bob claimed he was very particular and after seeing his first rate work I believe him. He even fabricated a nice looking brace that mounts across from frame to frame on the rear section. The whole thing is very solid as he demonstrated. He said he went with 2 1/2" pipe instead of 2 1/4". I thought I might have trouble in the future if I needed to drop the tranny, but now that I seen how he went with the pipes, I know for sure that I won't have no trouble whatsoever. After work, I called and he said to give him another 30 minutes as the tips should be coming in any second. I gave him an hour and the wife and I went down there. The truck was on the ground and ready to go. He was busy with another customer, so he told me to go check it out and start it up. Wow! What an amazing difference. It now purrs instead of being deafening loud. It was getting dark, so he told me to go ahead and drop it off while he finishes up with the other customer. The wife followed me as I drove it to Paul Moore's Brake Shop.

Brakes II / Wheel Alignment

  • 12/02/2008 - I dropped off the truck to have Lawrence double check the lines and find the leak. On the way over, I noticed a squealing sound. It might be the starter not disengaging all the way, so I'll check that out immediately when I get the truck back from Lawrence. Also, there was some smoke coming off, but that's most likely the oil coming from the brand new pipes.
  • 12/05/2008 - Lawrence is still working on the truck. I brought my brother, Al, over to take a gander at the truck since he hasn't seen it yet. I debated bringing it home to work on the electrical, but, as my brother just got in to town, I decided to take the weekend off. I talked with Lawrence and he seems to be having a hard time with the brakes as he can't fill it up very well now that the position of the master cylinder has shifted. I told him that I'll come down Monday and cut the hold needed to access the master cylinder. I wanted to wait on this, but it seems it'll help him out. I'll do just enough to access the master cylinder and I'll come back to it later.
  • 12/08/2008 - Went to the brake shop and I worked on cutting a hole for the master cylinder access. I have it big enough for now, but eventually I'd like to make it slightly bigger. The problem is the base of the bench seat is in my way. I'm keeping an eye out on a new bench seat with a flip down back. Either way, the hole is big enough to get the cap on and off, so it will be a great help for Lawrence.
  • 12/12/2008 - Picked up the truck. Lawrence thinks he may good now, but he's not certain as we need to wait and see.

Head & Brake Lights / Electrical Rewiring

  • 12/13/2008 - Al and I started stripping every single wire from the truck. Dad came over as we were mostly through it and he helped with the wires going to the back of the truck. We finished stripping every wire except the hot, distributor, and starter. We have the bare minimum to get the truck started. I had to stop there as we have the TRC Christmas party to get to.
  • 12/15/2008 - Went down after work and bought two new front tires from America's Tire. I simply got some 215P60R15 for Camaro rims. I'll eventually put these rims and tires back on my Camaro, but for now they give the perfect ride height and stance for the truck (215P60R15 in front and 255P60R15 in back). After putting the front tires back on, we drove the truck down to Paul Moore. The alignment is way off, so I'm going to have them take care of it as well as bleed out the brakes. Lawrence is closed on Wednesday this week, but he said he'll get the brakes bled and start on the alignment. I told in that I need the truck back on Friday so I can start on the electrical and he agreed that would be okay.
  • 12/16/2008 - Made the appointed with DMV for Thursday at 3:40pm.
  • 12/18/2008 - Woot! I was in and out of DMV within 10 minutes. It went fairly easy and all I needed was my proof of insurance and $76 for the registration. They gave me my new license plate along with the month and year tags.
  • 12/19/2008 - Lawrence wasn't able to get to the truck, so I brought it home for the new wiring harness install.
  • 12/20/2008 - Al, my brother, and I got most of it wired up. It was cold and wet, so we weren't able to work at full speed. My Dad came over and helped out. We worked at a slow pace doing once section / harness at a time. I'm real particular as to how I route everything. It has to be functional and look good; who says I can't have both!
  • 12/21/2008 - We (Dad, Al and I) completely removed the old ignition wires and we are on the new harness now. Best of all, it starts up just fine and everything we hooked up is working great. Again, it was very wet and we worked slowly. If we had a nice sunny day I'm sure we could have done it all in one day. We have the headlights working (standard headlights, not the H4 lights that I'll add later). Tomorrow all we have left is the rear harness, which is only 3 wires (brake, left turn, and right turn). Later I'll add backup lights, etc.
  • 12/22/2008 - Well, we now have the rear brake lights working and decided to take the truck around the block. We only got 12 feet from the driveway before the rear lights went out. It was too dark for us to do anything, so we'll look at it tomorrow.
  • 12/23/2008 - As I suspected (restless all night about it), it was the bulbs. Jim Carter sent us 6 volt bulbs and I'm fairly confident that I ordered 12 volt. Oh well, 10 bucks and a trip to the local Kragens solved that issue and now the brake lights work fine.

Windshield Wiper kit

  • 12/24/2008 - The new electric wiper motor (12 volt), came in today along with the H4 lights.
  • 12/26/2008 - I installed the wiper motor today. It took me a bit longer than I had liked, but I didn't have any instructions or the old motor to guide me. Once I figured out how it mounted, it wasn't that bad. Getting the wipers to park in the right position took the most of my time and it was much more difficult than it needed to be. I think I over complicated it by trying to adjust from the motor's perspective instead of simply removing the wiper arms and setting in the proper location from outside. Oh well, they work perfect now and it's mount quite well without rubbing against anything under the dash.
  • 12/27/2008 - I ordered the new wiper blades and I should get them next week. We also clean out the manual steering gear box as much as we could and added 80/90w gear oil. The PO had it pack with grease. Based on research, it the gear oil is the proper way to go, even though some people did use grease. I noticed my rear passenger side brake cylinder is leaking, so I'll mention it to Lawrence on Monday. I also went to America's Tire today and apparently the kid I was dealing with didn't understand backspacing. He wanted to do everything from offset and didn't understand the difference between backspacing and offset. I currently have a 4.5" backspacing on the rear wheels and they are rubbing against the bed. I told the kid I wanted something with a 3 to 3.5" backspacing and he didn't understand and said he would call the wheel manufacturer to see what could be done. Needless to say, I wasn't impressed and I doubt I'll be buying my tires there now. I'm supposed to get a quote on Monday, but I'm guessing it's going to be much higher than it needs to be.

Brakes III / Wheel Alignment II

  • 12/29/2008 - I went to Paul Moores and they are closed until 1/5/2009, so so much for getting the alignment and brakes fixed this week. I did, however, ordered the wheel adapters from Summit Racing (Part# TRD-3611) and I should get them on Wednesday. These adapters will resolve the backspacing issue and allow me to use the wheels I wanted to begin with from Coy's Wheels.
  • 12/30/2008 - Went to America's Tire again so I can get my rear tire replaced and the front one checked out as it's losing pressure. The kid from the other day gave me my quote and sure enough it was totally outrageous. He quoted me about $2350 for everything. What he doesn't know is that I already have a quote for much less for a better wheel to begin with. I would mention it and see if they would price match, but I really don't want to deal with this kid anymore and I rather spend my money elsewhere on competent people.
  • 12/31/2008 - The wheel adapters came in today and they were a breeze to install. Sure enough, the wheels fit much better and they won't be rubbing against the bed any more. Eventually I may replace the rear end so I won't have to worry about adapters, but, for now, this solves the problem. The wheel adapters are of race quality and therefore my daily driving shouldn't even come near the amount of stress and abuse they can handle. They effectively take my 4.5" backspacing and make it a 3.0" backspacing, which is nice since they don't make the wheel I want in a 3.0" backspacing.
  • 01/5/2009 - Drove down to Paul Moores during lunch and Lawrence is going to align wheels as it's toeing out badly. Likewise, he's going to take a look at the leak in the rear brakes.
  • 01/7/2009 - Lawrence has the alignment all squared away and they determined that the leak in the rear isn't the brakes and is in fact the rear axle seal. Kevin's going to tear into it and replace them both.
  • 01/8/2009 - Looks like the rear passenger wheel/axle bearing is shot all to hell and the surface on the real axle shaft is iffy. We're going to replace both axle bearings with "RP" bearings, which will offset where the bearing sets go it will be on a smoother surface. Eventually I want to either replace the whole rear-end for the sole reason of eliminating the wheel spacers/adapters. If not, then potentially the rear axle shafts. The rear end is 12 bolt and positraction, so it's a decent beefy rear-end and it would be a shame to waste.
  • 01/12/2009 - Went by during lunch and the truck all set to go. Lawrence says the rear-end went well and that it'll hold me over for a long time. I brought the truck back home after work and took the wife for a ride for the first time. I saw smoke and it smelled as if oil was burning, so I checked into it and saw that my oil dip stick was popped up. It looks like I need to make sure I put the dip stick in with the handle towards the engine, otherwise it hits the steering column and will pop out. I also tightened the valve cover bolts. Tomorrow I'll clean it up and see what happens.

Transmission Shift Points I / Steering

  • 01/13/2009 - During lunch I went down to Kragens and got some supplies. I cleaned the oil off of everything so I can better track if I solved the oil burning problem. I also replaced the grease in the steering gear box. The oil I put in there leaked out. Lawrence told me that it's very common for the older gear boxes and that grease is the normal method of lubrication. I didn't have a grease gun, so I packed it in as best I could with my finger. I'll take it over my dad's this weekend and use his grease gun. Just as I was finishing up, my dad showed up. We took the truck for a drive to check on the oil leak and steering issue. My dad confirms the steering seems too tight. It does look like I solved the oil leak though. I also noticed that the transmission didn't seem to shift at the proper RPM points. Al, from Al's Transmissions, mentioned that it might need adjustment. Tomorrow I'll call Al and see when we can bring it in.
  • 01/14/2009 - Drove the truck down to Al's Transmissions and they are going to set the shift points tomorrow. If all goes well, then I should get the truck tomorrow. I mentioned that I absolutely need the truck done by the weekend.
  • 01/15/2009 - I called Kay and she said they hadn't even started on the truck! I swear everyone is assuming since the truck is a project, that it's okay to push it to the back of the queue. It's frustrating to say the least. Kay said they would start on it tomorrow first thing, but my worry is that they'll run into an issue and I'll get the short end of the stick. I stressed again that I need the truck by the weekend to work on the alarm / door wiring.
  • 01/16/2009 - Hah! Did I call it or what? Al's Transmissions waited to the last day to get started on my truck and sure enough they ran into problems. I don't have the whole story yet, but Kay called and said something about changing the governor and the mechanic is having a problem opening the door. Even though they are the first one's to ever have a problem with the driver's door, I told Kay to have the mechanic use the passenger's side door as it opens without any problem. About an hours later Kay called again claiming that the driver cut his hand trying to open the door (poor baby) and that truck won't be ready. I was pissed right now and told her that they put me in a bad situation and that I really need the truck this weekend for the wiring. She said that I can come pick it up, but the tranny won't be done. I went down to pick it up and she said that I need to call on Monday. I don't know why I can't just bring it in, but whatever. I'll deal with them on Monday. I knew this was going to happen. From now on, I'm telling people that it's urgent and to not treat the truck like a low priority project.

Stage 2 - Misc

Alarm / Solenoid / Door Latch

  • 01/17/2009 - Good news was that I partially mounted the alarm modules and I was able to fully work out the Autoloc solenoids. I started on the alarm, but ran out of pieces parts for the wiring, so I moved on to the solenoids. I'm going to only mount the passenger side solenoid for now. I was able to mount the solenoid near the bottom of the door directly below the latch mechanism with the use of a pulley. I manually tested the everything by just connecting directly to the battery and sure enough the 50 lbs solenoids are plenty enough to handle the latch. I had to cut a circular hold in the door just above the solenoid to make the adjustments to the cable tensity. Since I worked out the solenoid mechanics, I needed to get back on to the alarm and wiring to piece it altogether. I went to the local Home Depot and picked up some wiring supplies and a new drill bit for installing the door popper. I ran a 12 gauge wiring from the battery up and around the firewall, then back into the cab. It was the long way around, but there wasn't an cleaner way of doing it and I'm trying to keep it as clean as possible. With the new hot wiring in the cab, I was able to do a quick "twist it altogether to see if it works" test. It was an awesome feeling being able to hold down the button on the FOB and having the solenoid engage. Now that I had it functional, I moved on to the poppers. I drilled the hole just below the top door hinge and installed the Autoloc door popper. With a few adjustments, I had the door automatically opening for me as I engage the solenoid. I went out by the street and was able to open the door with the FOB. Finally, I can now lock up the truck and feel somewhat safe. I tested the alarm shock sensor as well and it works great. It was getting dark, so I'm going to tidy up tomorrow. Oh, I forgot to mention that the steering wheel seems fine now! I added more bearing grease with the use of my dad's grease gun and the steering is much easier.
  • 01/18/2009 - I cleaned up the temporary wiring job and ran the wires where I wanted them. Everything was connected with real crimp connectors as I will not have any twisted / black taped wires in the truck at all! The clean up went fairly well and all I did was to hook up the bare minimum (solenoid, shock sensor, and alarm indicator LED). After everything was cleaned up, I went down to Kragens to get a few supplies. I oiled the passenger door latch as it sometimes stuck and I had to play with the latch to get it to lock back up. After a few squirts of Liquid Wrench, the problem was solved. I did a few dozen test and it worked every time. I went ahead and use a c clamp on the driver's side door to keep it from rattling. Later I want to install the Bear Claws latches from Autoloc to fix the driver's side door. BTW, the two way pager remote for the alarm is nifty. If I'm too far away from the truck, it will page the FOB to let me know there is a alarm in progress. How cool is that?

Transmission Shift Points II

  • 01/19/2009 - I called Al and they wanted me to fix the driver's side door before they worked on the truck. I told Al that it's out of the question as I don't have the money to do so in the budget yet and it will be about 6 months to a year until I do get everything situated. I'm not going to half ass anything on the truck just to satisfy some ass who finds it inconvenient to use the passenger's side door. I told him that it was hooked up to the FOB and it's a press of the button, but he still complained that they have to get in and out many times during the adjustments and it would be too hard for them to have to use the passenger's side door. Dear lord, these people are pissing me off with their lazy ass excuses. What ever happened to customer satisfaction? I stay the course and said that I need the transmission fixed prior to any further work and Al finally asked if I could remove the driver's side door. Oh, what drama! I asked if removing the latching mechanism would suffice as that's what they are really complaining about. He preferred the door completely off altogether and I conceded as I was tired of debating with them. I still don't understand why they want the whole door off as opposed to just the latch, but then again these are the same people too lazy to use the passenger's side door. On a side note: I will *NOT* be using Al's Transmissions in the future. I got a head start and pulled two bolts from each door hinge. I'm not going to drive it up there without the door, so I call my dad and made arrangements with him to follow me up with his pickup. After work, we drove up there and proceeded to get the door off. Just as we got the door off, the mechanic came out and talked to me. He asked what is was doing and I mentioned that it felt like the shift points are off and I'm not seeing 3rd gear. He claimed that it was odd since he thought he had it all fixed on Friday! I took a step back and ask what?!?! I twas told that it wasn't fixed and that I need to call back Monday to bring it in. Apparently somewhere down the line there was a miscommunication to me and the truck was indeed fixed. The mechanic said, let's go for a test drive and so we started slowly down the side road. Sure enough it does seem better. Even though I couldn't hear or feel it making the shift between 2nd and 3rd. The mechanic asked me to punch it to WOT and when I did I was clearly able to feel the transmission shifting through all 3 gears. I tried it a couple of times and he was right. To be honest, I was happy and pissed at the same time. It was a nice time sink and it would have been nice to have been told the correct information the first time through. My dad and I put the door back on and drove home. We then drove the truck around to see, without any influence, if it does seem better. We both agreed that it seems fine.

Fuel Sender / Temp Gauge / Fan

  • 01/20/2009 - I filled the tank up today for the first time from empty (don't ask) and the tank appears to be a 16.5 gallon tank. I overfilled a bit and on the way home it smelled like gas. At first, I just thought "oh well, it must have split a bit when I overfilled" and then the smell got much stronger! By the time I got home, I knew there was something going on so I started on checking everything out. I notice gas in the back of the cab floor. I traced the leak back to the fuel sending unit on top of the tank. Apparently the PO used the wrong fuel sending unit and as I overfilled it has enough pressure to push the gas out of a fuel line that is on top of the fuel sending unit. First off, there isn't supposed to be a fuel line on top of the sending unit. Second, why didn't the PO plug it off! I think I lost about 1/2 a gallon in my cab. I was able to find a bolt that fit into the line to plug it off. I spent the next hour cleaning up the mess and trying to air out the cab. On a brighter note, I did order the fan today.
  • 01/21/2009 - A little more gas leaked out today, so I refactored the plug and I'm fairly confident that I have it solved now. I went ahead and added back in the Autometer temperature gauge temporarily until I can get ahead and order the Dakota digitals. I did the measurements for the electric fan I have on order and it's going to be very close fit! I'm a bit nervous and I can't wait to get the fan here.
  • 01/24/2009 - The fan came in yesterday and I quickly verified that it would fit, which, to my delight, it fits like a glove. Today, I fabricated some mounting pieces (aluminum tubes) for the fan. I refused to poke a hole through the radiator fins like everybody else does! I think it's ridiculous to mount a fan by destroying your radiator, so instead I took an extra 4 hours figuring out a better way to mount the fan. I have brackets that perfectly extend slightly beyond the edge of the radiator. I used the aluminum tubes to guide 1/4"x2 1/2" bolts through to the radiator support frame. It was difficult to get the bottom bolts, but I had Dylan with his smaller hands push the bottom two through. After mounting I did a quick test and all I have to say is that's a lot of air! I haven't figured out how I want to run the wires yet, so I left it as is for now.
  • 01/25/2009 - Shirked my responsibilities and went to the car/parts sale at the fairgrounds with Dad and Al.
  • 01/28/2009 - I finally hooked up the relay to the fan. For now I just wired it to turn on anytime the ignition is on. Eventually I need to hook it up to the temp sender in the head, but I want to test the sender to make sure it's still working. On the relay, I have post 86 and 30 wired together and then to the orange "electric fan" wire from the American Wire harness. Post 87 goes to the blue/positive wire on the fan. Post 85 is hardwired to ground, but I need to eventually take this post and run it to the temp switch. On the fan, the black/negative wire is grounded. I'm zip tied the relay to the fan mounting bracket for now. I also worked on the cigarette lighter. I previously had it hooked up to the wrong wire. For sake of accuracy, I hooked it up to the proper wire, which was the red wire. For some reason, the red wire doesn't appear to be labeled and, to make it more confusing, the wiring diagram says it's supposed to be an orange wire. Orange is typical of Chevy for the cigarette wire, but there isn't an orange wire on the accessory plug and to confirm I had to right wire I used a multimeter to trace the wire back to the fuse panel, which indeed terminated at the cigarette lighter fuse.

Stage 3 - Weekend Projects

Rear Coil Springs and Shocks

  • 08/08/2009 - I ordered some shocks and coils springs to put on this weekend and, as usual, something goes wrong. Neither the shocks nor the springs fit. The shocks had an eye on one end and a tee on the other, where as I need an eye on both ends. The coils seemed like they would fit though, but nope. They will rub on the frame if I leave them in. I went back to Kragens to swap them and I was able to get new shocks, but the coil springs need to be ordered. I left the truck on block and, as motivation, I'll ride my bike cycle around until I get the springs back on the truck.
  • 08/18/2009 - Over the last week or so, I tried a gambit of coils from Moog (see below). I finally ended up with a 5401, which if I position right doesn't constantly rub the frame. That said, I had to put a bit more air than I like in the shocks to prevent it to hit the frame in the event of speed bumps. I'm still far from happy, but it'll do for now and at least it better than the old ones that were hitting all the time plus leaning. I'm going to keep my eye out for a 68+ Chevelle rear end, which a bit longer and should help me resolve these issues with a bit of undoing the POs cockeyed welding and adjusting the perches inward a bit.

Valve Covers, belt, General Tune-Up

  • 09/28/2009 - I heard some squeaking and I figured it's time to change the belt and might as well do a tune up with oil change. After work, I started loosing the alternator and it fell off in my hands as the bottom bolt fell out. Long story short, the bolt wouldn't go back in because it busted off a piece inside the engine head. My only thought was that at least it broke all the way while I was working on it and not while I was driving, otherwise the alternator could have easily ended up in the radiator.
  • 09/30/2009 - I drilled and tapped out the busted bolt and replaced the bolt (3/8-16x6 Grade 8 Hex Head Cap Screw). I put a washer behind the shim and the alternator to make the alternator shift a bit more towards the radiator. This lines it up better with the belt, which I believe was the whole reason why it busted to begin with. I also got a shorter belt (V Belt 7425)) as the old one was maxing out the alternator adjustment.
  • 10/03/2009 - I changed the oil (Mobile One Clean 5000 98HC45) and oil filter (Fram PH5). I also removed the valve covers and ground off all the chrome on the bottom lips. I replaced the valve cover gaskets (Fel-Pro VS12869AC, extra thick) and used ultra black silicon on both sides of the gasket. I read that I could just put silicon on the valve cover side and not on the head side. I might try that next time.
  • 10/12/2009 - After work I finally decided to install the new hotter spark plugs (Accel 8199 U-Groove Spark Plug - 8 Pack of #576S) I ordered to replace the colder #574S plugs. I gapped them to .035". After installing the new plugs, I checked the timing and saw that it was only at 4 degrees. I reset the timing to 8 degrees and then checked the RPM at idle. The idle RPM was only at 650ish, so I bumped it up to 700 RPM by adjusting the primary and then secondary idle mixture screws on the carburetor. I didn't have to touch the idle speed screw at all. I played with FOT (Full Open Throttle) and noticed it no longer pops.

TODOs

Cost Breakdown

  • $2800.00 - 1951 Chevy 1/2 Ton Truck, 3100 Series
  • $424.99 - Kragens - Edelbrock Thunder Series Avs Carb - Part # 18054
  • $274.99 - Kragens - Edelbrock Intake Manifold - Part # 71014
  • $90.99 - Kragens - MSD Ignition Spark Plug Wire Set: Universal 8 Cylinder; 8.5mm Super Conductor - Part # 31199
  • $13.44 - Kragens - TD Performance Valve Covers, Chrome - Part # 9518
  • $400.00 ($800.00 - $400.00 for selling the donor truck) - Left/right fenders, radiator support bracket, and grill from donor truck
  • $372.85 - Radiator / Cap / Petcock from Jim Carter Classic Truck Parts
  • $215.28 (181.38 = solenoids + 33.90 = relays) - AutoLoc solenoids (Part # SL50) and "Keep It Clean" 40 Amp Relay (Part # RA1000)
  • $345.00 - Brake Booster / Master Cylinder Kit from Performance Online
  • $65.10 (49.10 part + 16.00 shipping) - Transmission Cross Member from Performance Online
  • $45.95 (35.95 part + 10.00 shipping) - Polyurethane Transmission Mount
  • $537.32 (89.00 for upgraded cross drill and gas slotted roters + 42.76 shipping) - 12" Front Disc Brake Wheel Kit w/X-drill & Gas Slotted rotors
  • $1889.57 - Paul Moore Brake Service / Lawrence installing brake kits and redoing all the lines / brakes
  • $291.13 (219.69 + 59.69 + 11.75 shipping) - Summit Racing / Lokar - LOK-ATS6350BM - Automatic Shifter, GM, TH350, 16 in. and LOK-70-BFMB - Shifter Boot, Rectangle
  • $381.73 (424.15 - 42.42 (10% PayPal discount) - Ebay / American Autowire - Part # 500467 - Complete Wiring Kit for 47-55 Chevy Truck
  • $2148.07 - Al's Transmissions - Rebuilt Transmission, installed new shifter with shift kit, new torque converter, replace pinion seal for the rear end
  • $356.39 (337.69 + 18.70 for shipping) - Halogen Headlights (H-4) 12v, taillights and brackets, taillight wiring conduit and grommets, door striker plates and latches, wiring harness clips, hood hinges, all mounting hardware for the head lights from the outer ring to the bucket (except the actual bucket as mine were fine) with all the gaskets.
  • $22.55 - Parts Unlimited - 5' of brake booster vacuum line
  • $13.94 - Kragens - Vacuum elbow and air filter cover retainer/knob
  • $650.00 - Bob's Mufflers - Flowmaster Series 40 / 2 Chamber
  • $156.70 (129.95 part + 11.75 shipping + 15.00 for 2nd day air upgrade) - Summit Racing / Trans Dapt Performace - 1.25" Wheel Adapters/Spacers - Part #: TRD-3611
  • $27.73 (16.24 part + 9.62 shipping and handling + 1.87 tax) - speedycarparts.com - 1949-57 Chevrolet Truck Anco Wiper Blades
  • $104.72 - Electronic Express - Audiovox Prestige car alarm - Part # APS596
  • $46.11 - (39.98 part + 6.13 shipping) - ebay (newmatics) - AutoLoc door poppers
  • $34.58 - ebay (50stuf) - Skull Brodie knob
  • $412.13 - Paul Moore Brake Service - Wheel Alignment and Replacement of rear axle bearings
  • $96.46 (86.95 + 9.51 for shipping) - nuLime.com / Zirgo - 16", 3000 cfm high performance blu cooling fan - Part # ZFB16S
  • $86.99 - Kragens / Moog - Coil Springs - Part # 5401
  • $74.99 - Kragens / Monroe - Air Shocks - Part # MA727

Running Total: $12,379.70 and still counting....
NOTE TO NAYSAYERS:Yes, it's a lot of money and I could have most likely bought one already together like you did, but do you know intimately what you have in your truck? I twisted every nut and screwed every screw in my truck... what about you; who twisted your nuts and screwed your screws?

Future Purchases

Specifications

  • Year / Make / Model
    • 1951 Chevy 1/2 Ton 3 Window Truck Series 3100
    • First Series
  • Engine
    • 350 V8
    • Originally was in my 1968 Camaro
  • Transmission
    • TH350
    • 350 Torque Converter
    • Rebuilt by Al's Transmissions in October 2008 w/2 year warranty
    • Mild (Street/Strip) shift kit
  • Transmission Mount
  • Transmission Cross Member
  • Shifter
    • Lokar
    • Automatic Transmission Shifter TH-350 16"
    • Neutral Safety Switch
    • Positive Lock-Out in Park and Neutral
    • Brushed aluminum shifter knob in original mushroom design
    • Easy-to-remove shifter knobs for simple boot installation
    • Teflon lined button in shifter knobs for smooth operation
    • Chrome-plated lever (16" in length)
    • Gold iridited bracketry
    • Part #ATS6350B
    • http://www.lokar.com/product-descriptions/auto-trans-shifters.htm
  • Intake Manifold
  • Carburetor
  • Radiator
    • Heavy Duty / 4 Row
    • Designed to handle V8s with air conditioning
    • Transmission cooler in lower tank
    • Dimensions: 20-3/4 x 19-3/4 x 2
    • Part #ME355A
    • http://www.oldchevytrucks.biz/47_55/full.asp?page=90
      • Radiator Cap 7 lbs rating
        • Part #ME545
      • Brass Petcock
        • 1/4" pipe thread
        • Part #ME740
  • Electric Fan
    • Zirgo / Hoffman Group
    • Ultra high performance electric fan
    • 16" diameter with 10 S blades
    • 3000 CFM
    • 16"x16"x3.5"
    • Sealed ball bearings and fully balanced blades for quite operation
    • Part #ZFB16S
    • http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/fans
  • Wiring Harness
    • American Auto Wire
    • Chevrolet Truck Classic Update Kit - 1947-55 Chevy Truck / Modified Restoration Wiring
    • New floor dimmer, headlight switch with internal circuit breaker, and ignition switch
    • Standard turn signal flasher, hazard flasher, and horn relay mounted on fuse panel
    • Fuse box and custom mounting plate are designed for bolt-in under dash installation
    • Accessory disconnect provided for all connections
    • All terminals are provided, as well as a switched trigger wire for electric fan relay
    • All required hardware supplied
    • Instrument Cluster wiring is designed with a "cluster harness disconnect" system for easy service and assembly
    • High quality wiring with each function marked all through the wire
    • Part #500467
    • https://0193647.netsolstores.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=24427
  • Distributor
    • Mallory
    • Unilite Conversion Kit for Pointd Distributors (No Longer Requires Points)
      • Improves Performance and Fuel Efficiency
      • Reduced Maintenance
    • Dual Points Trigger Style
    • Self-Lubricating Bushings
    • Adjustable Mechanical Advance
    • Mallory Super-Duty Cap and Rotor with Brass Terminals
    • Cap #209
    • Rotor #309
    • Cap #209
    • Part #2548201
    • http://www.malloryperformance.com/pdf/Distributors.pdf
  • Coil
  • Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Spark Plugs
    • Spark Gap Set to 35
  • Alarm System
  • Doors
    • Autoloc / Hoffman Group Solenoids
      • Military Grade High Torque Power
      • Immune to Rusty or Sticky Latches
      • 2x Retention Springs with Adjustable Pulling Power
      • Self-grounding Bracket / Single Wire Hookup
      • Progressive Weight Return Spring
      • Sealed End Cap
      • 1/16 Pre-stretched Stainless Steel Cable
      • Compact Design
      • Part #SL50
      • http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/details.lasso?itemid=sl50
    • Autoloc / Hoffman Group Door Poppers
  • Rear Brakes
    • Drum Brakes
    • ??Early 70s model?? Uses nuts and not a clip.
    • 5 x 4.75" Bolt Pattern
    • Stainless Brake Hoses
  • Front Brakes
  • Brake Booster / Master Cylinder
    • Performance Online Power Brake Booster Kit
    • 7" Dual Diaphragm Power Brake Booster
    • Dual Master Cylinder
    • Mounting Brackets/Hardware (Mounts on Original Master Cylinder Frame Bracket and uses the Factory Pedal Assembly)
    • Prop Valve / Prop Valve Bracket / Prop Valve Lines
    • Info from POL
      • Vacuum source must be from the intake manifold ONLY and not the carb. The vacuum pressure must be between 16 to 26 lbs.
    • Part #16767
    • Lifetime Warranty
    • http://www.performanceonline.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=16767&cat=1057&page=1
  • Wheel Studs
    • Front (Disc): ???? They were on the disc kit Napa Part #641-3201
      • ???? 7/16 Thread
    • Rear (Drum): Napa Part #641-1615
      • 7/16 Thread
  • Rear Wheel Adapter / Spacer
  • Rear Springs
  • Rear Shocks
  • Mufflers
  • Misc
    • Oil
      • Mobile One
      • Clean 5000
      • Part # 98HC45
    • Oil Filter
      • Fram
      • Part # PH-5
    • Alternator
      • Bottom bolt
        • Hex Head / Cap Screw
        • 3/8-16x6"
        • Grade 8
        • Part # 004020
      • Belt
        • Gates - XL - V Belt
        • 13/32"x43-1/8"x1/8" OC
        • 10mm x 1095mm OC
        • Part # 7425 / 11A1080
      • Valve Cover
        • Gasket
          • Fel-Pro
          • Extra thick
          • Cork
          • Part # VS12869AC
  • Power Steering
    • Gear box casting # 7802644
    • Gear box nose plug # 5686815
    • Input shaft OD: 13/16" with 36 spline count

Misc

Rear end identification:

  • Rear Driver Side Pumpkin Tab: Casted: K87 = November 8th, 1967
  • Front Drive Side Pumpkin Tab: Casted: 3917124 = 12 Bolt used in late 1967 to 1969 Chevelles
  • Rear Passenger Side Pumpkin Tab: Casted: CON1 = Foundry Control #1 (plant control number)
  • Front Passenger Side Tube: Stamped: KK 11 28 B = KK = Posi-traction 4.10 gears, 11 = November, 28 = 28th day, B = Buffalo, NY
  • My Measurements: Back to Back of drum = 54", drums are about 3.25", total width 54"+3.25"+3.25" = 60.5" + 2.5" for spacers = 62.5" is the required width
  • 1964-67 Chevelle rear ends were manufactured by the Chevrolet Gear and Axle Division. The housing measures 56.5 inches from flange to flange, and with the brake drums in place, the total width is 60.5 inches.
  • 1968-72 Chevelle rear end housings measure 58.5 inches from flange to flange, and with the brake drums in place, the total width is 62.5 inches.
  • 1970-81 Camaro/Firebird rear end measures 62.5" drum to drume
  • Ideas: If I go with a 255/50-17 tire, a 200-4R overdrive transmission, then possible a 3.43 rearend ratio would be best. If I don't go with the 200-4R, then a 3.08 or 2.73 rearend would be best.
  • Rearend applications that fit: +chevelle +monte carlo +camino +cutlass +skylark +gto
  • Transmission Gear Ratios:
TH-350-----2.52 1.52 1.00
TH-2004R---2.74 1.57 1.00 0.67
  • The Overall Length:
    • TH350: 27 5/8" or 30 5/8"
    • TH200-4R: 27 3/4"
  • Face to Mount Length:
    • TH350: 20 3/8"
    • TH200-4R: 26 3/4"

Coil Attempts

  • 5409 = 1" or so too tall and hitting frame
  • CC501 & CC509 = Hitting frame, but I'm not sure on the height


Links

Rear End

3896839
KAX 003W71
GM 8.875" 12 Bolt Truck Rear / 1971 Truck/C10 -- 3.07 Gear Ratio

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